Shoe and method of making same



Jan. 19, 1937. F` MACCARONE 2,068,237

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Oct. 9, 1955 2 Sheets-Sheet lINVENTOR 15 E'd Marra/fwn@ ATTORNEY Jan. 19, 1937. F. MAccARoNE SHOE ANDMETHOD OF' MAKIG SAME 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Oct. 9, 1955 INVENTOR predNaccarone ATTORNEY Patented Jan. is, 1937 2,068,231 d snor: AND METHODor MAKING SAME Fred Maccarone, Brooklyn, N. Y., assignor to The Del-MacShoey Process Corporation, New York.

Application October 9, `1935, Serial No. 44,180 8 Claims. (CI.12-`,-142) My invention relates to shoes and Shoemaking and moreparticularly to the making of flexible single soled Shoes in which theupper and sole parts are secured together by stitching. Heretoforestitched shoes of this type have generally been assembled inside-out ona last and thereafter turned, and then second lasted' on a different andsmaller last to give the shoe its nal form and shape.

A principal object of my invention, therefore, is to provide an improvedshoe comprising a single sole, .the construction of the sole and theformation of the inseam being such that the Shoe may be assembled andfinished right-sideout on a single last.

Another principal object is to provide a simple and economical method ofmaking my improved shoe, and other and further objects .will appear fromthe following specification.

Referring to the drawings:

Figure 1 is a plan view of a Sole prepared in accordance with myinvention, having an inner and outer seam channel at the forepart.

Figure 2 is a longitudinal sectional view of the sole taken on line 2-2of Figure 1, and shows the material removed in forming the outer seamchannel and in reducing the shank.

Figure 3 is a cross sectional view of the sole taken at the central ballportion thereof and illustrates the manner in which the sole edgeandbetween substance is molded to open the inner andouter channels.

Figure 4 is a plan view of a last having the shoe upper and shank pieceassembled thereon.

Figure 5 is a cross sectional view illustrating J the manner in whichthe sole is presented to the assembly margin of the upper and the coursetaken by the thread in forming the forepart seam.

Figure 6 is a side elevation of the partly assembled shoe, the toeportion being shown in section to disclose the finished seamconstruction, and

Figure 7 is a side elevation of the finished shoe, also partly insection.

Figure 8 is a fragment-al section on a larger scale, taken on line 8-8oi' Figure 'I and clearly Showing the seam construction of the finishedshoe.

In carrying out my invention I prepare a rounded sole I Il reduced inthickness rearward of the ball line by removal of a shank piece Il, theyedges through the shank portion being further reduced or feather edgedat I2. The heel portion is split to form the usual heel breast ilap I3and, generally, the sole is prepared rearward of the ball line similarlyas soles are usually stock fitted for cement sole attaching.

Forward of the ball line I form two parallel marginal channels, being aninner Ichannel I4 and an outer channel or groove l 5 defining theintermediate between substance i6, and a channel leaf l1. The innerchannel is in all respects similar to the channel formed in preparingsoles for turned shoes. The outer channel, however, is aninward angulargroove involving the re- Ymoval of material as shown in Figure 2, theupper portion of the inner wall of the groove being substantially squareto form a shoulder l 9.

The inner channel is then opened in the usual manner. The outer channelis spread by moulding the edge of the sole forepart downwardly andlifting the shoulder I9, substantially to the position shown inFigure 3.

Independent of the sole preparation, the upper parts comprising theupper material 20 and lining 2l, are tack lasted to a, shank piece 23and to the last 215 over the forepart. 'I'he piece Il removed from thesole may serve as the shank piece 23 if desired. The assembly margins ofthe upper and its lining are then Secured together over the forepart bystitching 21, the temporary lasting tacks being removed, and the surplusover-lasted material being trimmed away to produce an assemblysubstantially as show n in Figure 4.

Adhesive, staples orl other means may be-employed in place of thestitching 21. if desired, the function 4to be served being to formabound edge which will hold the upper over the last after removal of thelasting tacks and which will be insertable into the outer channel orgroove I5.

'I'he assembly margin 30 of the upper forepart, bound by the securingmeans 21, is then brought into position in the outer channel l5 andthere secured by stitching, the thread vof which passes into the outerchannel, through upper have not yet been sewn to the sole. In

completing the seam about the forepart, the inside thread is passed outfrom under the shank portion of the sole.

It the last 2l is removed, itis reinserted after the forepart stitchinghas been accomplished and the shank and heel portions of the sole arelayed down and secured in position by means of a suitable adhesive,pyroxylin cement being preferred, after which an even pressure isapplied over the entire sole area and maintained until the cement hasset. This pressure is preferably obtained in a standard cement soleattaching machine. 'Ihe application of pressure over the forepartconforms the sole, including its previousl'y moulded edge, to the lastbottom and causes the channel leaf il and shoulder i9 to close over thethread and parts in the respective channels, obtaining a smooth interiorfor the shoe.

To comlpete the shoe, a heel 40 is attached in the usual manner, thelast 25 is removed and a sock lining 4| is inserted.

The shoe, constructed right side out on a singie last, obtains all theadvantages of a turned shoe and is not subjected to the usualdeleterious second lasting operations in which a second last ofdifferent size is inserted. At the forcpart the shoulder I9 abutsiiushly against the upper lining to hold the shoe in its lasted shape.The upper lining fits snugly and has no tendency to wrinkle up and, inother respects. the advantages of welt and McKay shoe constructions arecombined with the advantages inherent in turned shoes. v

Having thus described my invention, I claim:

1. In shoemaking methods, that improvement which includes: stitching theforepart of an upper right-slde-out to the forepart of a single sole andthen cement attaching the shank and heel portions of the sole.

2. In shoe making, that improvement which includes: providing a roundedsole blank with two marginal channels, defining an intermediate betweensubstance, positioning the sole assembly margin of an upper right sideout in the outer of said channels and securing said margin against theinner wallof the outer channel by means of stitching extending throughthe upper and said between substance.

3. In shoe making, that improvement which includes: providing a roundedsole blank with two marginal channels defining an intermediate betweensubstance. the inner wall of said outer channel being formed with anoutwardly projecting shoulder-like flange and the outer wall of theinner channel carrying a channel leaf, positioning the sole assemblymargin of an upper in the outer of said channels and securing it againstthe inner wall of said outer channel below said flange by means ofstitching extending through the upper and said between substance.

4. In shoemaking methods, that improvement which includes: lasting anupper right-side-out, binding the overlasted assembly margin of theupper and freeing said margin from the last, providing a full roundedsole having therein a leafed channel and a marginal groove outwardly ofsaid channel, said groove and channel defining an intermediate betweensubstance, po-

sitioning the assembly margin ofthe upper in said groove and securing itto the sole by stitching extending through the upper and said betweensubstance.

5. In shoemaking methods, that improvement which includes: temporarilyattaching a shank piece to a last and lasting an upper right-sideout tosaid shank piece and to the last forwardly of the shank piece, bindingthe overlasted assembly margin of the upper forepart and freeing saidforepart margin from the last, providing a full rounded sole having aleafed channel and a marginal groove outwardly of said channel in theforepart thereof, the inner wall of said groove being formed to comprisea shoulder-like flange, said groove and channel defining an intermediatebetween substance, positioning the forepart assembly. margin of theupper in said groove and securing it to the sole by stitching extendingfrom the groove below said flange through the upper and said betweensubstance into said leafed channel, and then cementattaching the soleover the shank and heel areas of the shoe.

6. In shoe making, that improvement which includes providing a solehaving two parallel marginal channels in its forepart, the inner of saidchannels being a leaf channel and the outer of said channels being anangular groove having its inner Wall undercut to define a shoulder,positioning the sole assembly margin of an upper forepart right-side-outin the outer of said channels and securing said margin against the innerwall of the outer channel below said shoulder by means of stitchingextended through the upper and said between substance, and then cementattaching the s ole rearward of the forepart.

7. A shoe comprising a sole member having two marginal channels in theinner surface thereof, said channels defining an intermediate betweensubstance, and the inner wall of said outer channel forming a shoulder,an upper having straight edge margins extending into the outer channeland faced against said shoulder, stitching extending through the upperand said between substance, and a channel leaf carried by said betweensubstance and overlying the stitching in said inner channel.

8. A shoe having a single sole and an upper secured thereto by stitchingover the forepart and by adhesive over the shank portion, said solehaving two marginal channels formed in the inner surface of the forepartthereof, said channels defining an intermediate between substance, andthe inner wall of said outer channel forming a shoulder, said upperhaving straight edge margins extending into the outer channel and facedagainst said shoulder, stitching extending through the upper and thebetween substance, and a channel leaf carried by the between substanceoverlying the stitching in said inner channel.

FRED MACCARONE.

